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Gary Poole

Member Since 09 Dec 2006
Offline Last Active Today, 01:40 PM

#264710 D6 Review for Wildlife

Posted by Gary Poole on 07 October 2020 - 08:37 AM



Thanks for the link.  I've been happy with my D4 until watching it. :angry:

My photo budget is nil, so all I can do is dream.  I'm dreaming of a Z7ii too. :rolleyes:

#262612 Blue Jay Images at 10-12K ISO

Posted by Gary Poole on 02 October 2019 - 01:31 PM

Great images Art!  I particularly like the 3rd one,


Like Mark (sailjunkie) I'm not surprised at how well the D5 does in low light at high ISO.  I few years ago I did side line photography of a local high school's football games with my D4.  High school football field lighting is often bad and a couple stops less in the end zones than at mid field.  I used manual exposure and auto ISO.  The ISO often went into the 10,000 to 12,800 range.  The images from at these high ISOs were quite usable, I would expect the the D5 images under similar circumstances would be even better.

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#262207 Yes? or No? What say you?

Posted by Gary Poole on 03 September 2019 - 10:17 AM



You may of read or heard these already, but a few recommendations and suggestions on panning technique.

  • Hold your upper body still/rigid, tuck your elbows in and rotate at your hips.
  • Start tracking the subject before releasing the shutter and continue after the shutter has closed.  This helps avoid any jerks in the camera motion while the shutter is open.
  • The shutter speed should be one that gives the desired amount of blur in the background.    The "best" shutter speed would be higher for bikes at max speed at the end of a straightaway that at the apex of a tight corner.
  • Ideally the subject would be moving perpendicular to your line of sight at the middle of the pan.  If the subject is coming toward you or going away from you, you could get blurring of your subject due to focus distance changing during the exposure.
  • Focus on the most important part of the subject.  In your case this would probably be the head of the cyclist.  I think I would use an AF continuous mode, starting the panning enough before shutter release to allow the focus tracking to lock in.  Manual focus set from previous cyclists may work as well.

As previously suggested 600mm may difficult to handle.  Most of my panning experience is many years back shooting sports cars on slide film with a 300/4 MF.

#260519 Lightroom vs ON1: Should You Switch?

Posted by Gary Poole on 29 March 2019 - 12:20 AM

I've been playing with ON1.  I'm decided to try because of it's a layer capability.  I prefer a perpetual license to Adobe's subscription only licensing.  Because I not gone the subscription route,  my comparison is with Lightroom Classic 6.14


My initial observations in the comparison are:

  • The camera profiles for my D810 seem to differ significantly from those in Lightroom.  The Lightroom profiles seem to match Nikon's fairly well.  I've been trying to duplicate some of my favorite images that I've processed in Lightroom.  An example in this image processed with Lightroom

20140929_031.jpg .

All I did in Lightroom is was use the Camera Standard profile and increase the shadow and saturation sliders.  I've been unable to duplicate the golden color of the mountainside or the contrast and saturation of the sky with ON1.  With ON1 the mountainside is yellow, regardless of the ON1 profile I choose.  The color temp and tint settings are the same in with both programs.

  • ON1 seems to encourage the use of "filters" to modify image appearance instead of adjusting the the built in controls of the Develop module.  Filters add the flexibility of having opacity and blending  modes to the other develop controls.  Filters in ON1 are similar to effects in Lightroom but there are many more ON1 filters.  ON1 builds presets on top of the filters, with several filters each with their own sliders, opacity and blending mode are combined in a single preset. This gives a tremendous amount of artistic flexibility when processing and image, but playing with all this flexibility can take a lot of time.  In the example above I only spent a few minutes in Lightroom to get an image I liked.  I've spent a few hours trying and failing to get as good an image in ON1.
  • I find the Print module in Lightroom very convenient.  It takes care of the image resizing and sharpening and the printer profiles almost painlessly and produces in my opinion a very acceptable print.  In ON1, all the resizing, sharpening have to be done explicitly and desperately for each different print size produced.  The printer profile for the paper used must also be applied as a separate processing step.
  • ON1 can be used as an add in to Lightroom in much the same way that many users go to Photoshop for processing that they can't  do with Lightroom

I can't see myself moving from Lightroom to ON1.  IMO the ON1 raw conversion for my D810 is inferior and the printing is in ON1 is much more complex.  At the present time the only time I will use ON1 is when I need layers.  I will start in Lightroom and use ON1 as an add-in instead of Photoshop when I need to do something beyond the capabilities of Lightroom.

#259791 Interesting Article About Slow Shutter Speed In High Speed Flash Photography

Posted by Gary Poole on 14 February 2019 - 08:00 PM

This is an extension of the basic theory of flash photography.  When you use flash there are 2 exposures:

  1. The ambient light exposure.  This is controlled by the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.  This is the image we would get without flash.
  2. The flash exposure.  This is controlled by aperture, ISO, the flash intensity and duration, and the square of the distance of the subject from flash.  The flash exposure is very fast, 1/1000 sec or less, depending on the flash settings.  The only shutter speed requirement is that it be slow enough so that the shutter is fully opened when the flash fires.  On most cameras this is 1/250 or 1/200 sec. and slower.

These 2 exposures are superimposed on a single image.


As the author of the article demonstrates, if we set up our camera for a very small ambient exposure, the ambient part of the image goes black and the only visible exposure is caused by the flash.  We do just the opposite of this for fill flash.  We set the camera for the ambient light and slightly underexpose the flash exposure.

#259764 New - Adobe Enhance Details

Posted by Gary Poole on 13 February 2019 - 10:05 AM

Photography Life has a first impressions article at https://photographyl...enhance-details

#258749 Coca Cola Datsun 510

Posted by Gary Poole on 01 January 2019 - 11:57 AM

Yes it was fun, but also expensive, even for a navigator.  The driver has the expense of equipping and maintaining the car.  The navigator pays the entry fees, fuel, and room and board during an event.


It took a while for me to actually enjoy it.  During the timed sections, navigators spent all their time looking at the route instructions which were shown with 1/100 mi. (16 m.) resolution.  It was pre GPS times, so we used precise mechanical odometers with internal changeable gears selected to match our odometer calibration to the rally master's odometer.  The navigator would count down 1/100th of a mile increments while approaching a turn ("right in10, 9, 8 ...").  If the navigator started counting too soon, time would be lost because the driver started braking earlier than necessary.  If the navigator started counting too late, the driver could overshoot the turn.  Rallies were run at night to minimize other traffic on the route.  On the timed sections navigators spent most of their time reading the instructions and odometers with a small map light instead of looking out the window.   The car was bouncing and sliding on the dirt roads with relatively high G braking and direction changes.  I took a couple of events before I was able to avoid feeling nauseous.


Fortunately I was only involved in one accident in a rally.  We went off the side of a narrow road along the side of a hill near Chillicothe, Ohio,  We ended up upside down with the wheels about 10 feet (~3 m.) below the road we were on.  We were hanging upside down in the 5 point seat/shoulder harnesses with the roll bar keeping the roof from collapsing on us.  The worst problem was getting up the courage to push the release button to get out of the harness. We weren't hurt, but worried about falling head first onto the roll bar and the inside of the roof.  After our Datson 510 was turned right side up and pulled back up to the road we able to drive it away with just some bent sheet metal and a broken windshield.

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#258561 Coca Cola Datsun 510

Posted by Gary Poole on 23 December 2018 - 12:02 PM

I have fond memories of being a navigator in SCCA rallies in a real Datsun 510 during the 1970s.  The 510 was a sturdy car and  engine and many other parts from the Datsun 240Z sports car would bolt right on to the 510.  Just add the 240Z parts, 5 point harnesses, and a roll bar and you had a competitive rally car.


I can also remember riding in Datsun Bluebirds while in Japan.

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#257930 Step Focus Experiment

Posted by Gary Poole on 27 November 2018 - 11:07 AM

There is a add on to Helicon Focus called Helicon Remote.  It's available for Windows, MAC, Android, and IOS.  Helicon Remote will step an AF lens through the exposures to make the stack, so that you can automate the process with cameras that don't have built in focus stacking like the D850.  I've used Helicon Remote with my D300, D800e, and D810.


Helicon Remote attaches to the camera with a USB cord.   You can control the camera and view the images with your remote device through the USB connection.  In auto stacking mode, you manually focus the lens at the min and max focus points and the program will step the lens though the range of the stack.  You can select the interval between shots.  When the sequence is done, Helicon Remote on a PC or MAC will automatically start Helicon Focus to process the images.  You can also use Helicon Remote in a manual mode with you adjusting focus or moving the camera using a focusing rail for each step.


Why US coins instead of Canadian ones?

#256293 Fun with older lenses on D850

Posted by Gary Poole on 04 September 2018 - 08:40 PM

I like your dog, Gary.


I will bet he is the most well behaved, well trained, dog you have ever had! :lol:


Very nice.

The food cost and vet bills are low too.  :) 

#256287 Fun with older lenses on D850

Posted by Gary Poole on 04 September 2018 - 02:05 PM

I finally took the time to play with a couple of my MF lenses on my D810.  This is my dog.  I expect it is a bit more patient than Eric's.  That patience allowed me to shoot from a tripod using mirror up and electronic front curtain, so camera motion as well as subject motion should be nil.

  • The first of each pair of pictures was with a Nikkor-P 105mm f:2.5, SN 432xx.  This is a pre AI lens from 1971-1973 with a factory AI conversion kit.  The optical formula is 5 elements in 4 groups.  The first version of this lens was a 5/3 formula.  This appears to be the last version of the 105/2.5 prior to multi-coating.
  • The second of each pair of lenses was with a Nikkor-H 85mm f:1.8 SN 222xxx.  This is a pre AI lens from 1969-1971 that was converted to AI by Jon White of aiconversions.com .  Based on the date Eric posted this lens is one generation newer than his, but the specs are the same and I can't see any differences in the pictures of the lens.

These images were made with both lenses wide open.  I did minimal processing in Lightroom, sharpening with my normal D800e/D810 settings and used Remove Chromatic Aberration.  I adjusted the 85mm exposure slightly to match the 105mm exposure.


I am amazed at the smooth bokeh that I see from both lenses. 



These first 2 images are the complete frame from the 105mm and then the 85mm

GTP_20180904_006.jpg   GTP_20180904_007.jpg


These are 1:1 crops from the 105mm followed by the 85mm.  To me the 105 is a bit sharper, at least a maximum aperature.  Because the 105 is almost 1 stop slower, maybe the comparison isn't fair.  I should have also made f:2.5 exposures with the 85mm, but didn't think of it at the time.

GTP_20180904_006-2.jpg   GTP_20180904_007-2.jpg

#256006 Fun with older lenses on D850

Posted by Gary Poole on 24 August 2018 - 01:54 PM




One of the interesting things about the Z6 and Z7 is they will bring VR to these old manual focus lenses though in-body stabilization. 



According to Thom Hogan there is no AI coupling mechanism on the FTZ.  This means that if MF lenses work with the adapter, we will have stop down metering instead of full aperture metering.  Or even worse, no effective metering if the FTZ leaves the aperture wide open until the time of exposure.  If a MF lens does stop down for exposure we may also be focusing at the picture taking aperture instead of wide open unless we do a lot of moving the aperture ring back and forth.

#255973 Fun with older lenses on D850

Posted by Gary Poole on 23 August 2018 - 12:33 PM


Thanks, Jim and Gary.


The photo above is of our 10 year old German Shepherd rescue.  We've had him about 8.5 years.  He's very photogenic - just like all us older guys. :)


One of the interesting things about the Z6 and Z7 is they will bring VR to these old manual focus lenses though in-body stabilization. 


The lenses I received are as follows:

Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 Ai (approx 1978)
Nikkor-H Auto 28mm f/3.5 Ai'd (approx 1970)
Nikkor-H Auto 85mm f/1.8 Ai'd (approx 1967) 
Nikkor O-C Auto 35mm f/2.0 Ai'd (Approx 1974)
Nikkor Micro 55mm f/2.8 Ai-S (approx 1985)
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-80 f/3.5-5.6 D (approx 1996)
Nikon Zoom-Nikkor 43-86mm f/3.5 (approx 1978)
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm f/3.3-4.5 (approx 1993)
Nikon Series E 75-150mm f/3.5 (approx 1984)


I don't have a pet to try my MF lenses on.  The best I can do is a wooden dog carved with a chainsaw.  (My 75 year old wife doesn't see herself as a photogenic subject.}  I think my first experiments will be with my 105/2.5 on the wooden dog.


For the lenses in your list I don't think I'd bother with the zooms, but using the primes should be fun.  The smoothness and the long throw of the focus rings of the MF lenses is amazing.  I even had my 35/1.4 repaired in my D300 days because the ring was very stiff due to dried up lubricant and/or grit.


Interesting thought about image stabilization for MF lenses in the Z7 and Z6.  Unfortunately my retirement income will not allow even thinking about them.  Maybe if I increase my occasional paid shooting sessions.

#255683 August is Water, anything that is H2O

Posted by Gary Poole on 02 August 2018 - 08:35 AM

Upper Bond Falls, near Bruce Crossing in Michigan's Upper Pennisula


D810, Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8, 1/2 sec, f/8, 17mm, ISO 64


#255682 August is Water, anything that is H2O

Posted by Gary Poole on 02 August 2018 - 08:29 AM

Another one from Smokey Mountain National Park


D810, Nikon 24-120mm f/4, 8 sec, f/8, 120mm, ISO 64, tripod.GTP_20150420_006-2.jpg