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What's the big difference?


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#1 fotofill

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 09:27 PM

Ok, here's the scenario -> I am shooting in a low light gym. ISO is at 10K and I am still a little under exposed. I want to keep my shutter speed at 1/1000. Do I bump the ISO to 12800, OR do I change the EV to +1.0? There has to be a difference somewhere in the results.

 


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#2 Herman

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Posted 27 August 2019 - 06:51 AM

My logic says the ISO.  Your camera would need to work harder to maintain 1/1000s if set to EV +1.0 and would probably lean towards a <=1/800s shutter speed.

 

:)


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#3 Sailjunkie

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Posted 27 August 2019 - 11:47 AM

My logic says the ISO.  Your camera would need to work harder to maintain 1/1000s if set to EV +1.0 and would probably lean towards a <=1/800s shutter speed.

 

:)

 

I agree with Herman.  Worth a try.  :)


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#4 Dennis

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Posted 27 August 2019 - 12:21 PM

I set the iso to increment in thirds, and go to auto. Then go shutter priority and set it at 1000.

 

However, I have used a + exposure comp to lighten up a image both AP and SP. Works well.


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#5 fotofill

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Posted 27 August 2019 - 10:22 PM

Shutter must stay at 1000. I set the camera to SP at 1000. But I am still not sure what the difference would be. I did EV+1 and left ISO at 10,000. I use noise filter in PS to take the edge off the noise.


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#6 Art

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Posted 27 August 2019 - 11:43 PM

Phil,

 

This is one of the most detailed pages I have ever seen describing the science between EV, ISO, SHUTTER SPEED.... etc.  I think an engineer wrote it and only a Rocket Scientist will understand it.

Worth a look.  Even has interactive fill in tables!  Might be of some help....

 

https://www.scantips...ts/evchart.html


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#7 Dennis

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Posted 28 August 2019 - 08:39 AM

Depending on your settings.

 

When I do use it, I'm hard setting one anchor. My normal would be to hard set ISO, AP and then +/- comp. The shutter speed will be used to lighting the image. If light is still a problem, then I go auto on the iso. There is a priority the cams use. The camera drops shutter until it can not, then ups iso, and then back to shutter. It will do the same to the aperture if SP is set.

 

That is mostly why I set my cams to using 1/3 stops (even EXP comp), so those changes are not that sweeping. For landscapes, some wildlife, one to two thirds is all I need to correct. The limits is set in camera and you can change them. I allow shutter/Apature to go however then need. I place a limit on how high ISO goes, but I can change that if that needs to be. For sports, I guess I would limit the iso to where I couldn't fix it in post.

 

This program game would not be easy to "see" the difference. Most of the time, the cam is changing aperture to get that light. Once aperture can't, then the cam goes and bumps iso. You will see the difference when light is low. I would see the difference when it is dusk, when no amount of correction can be done without iso. I don't see much of a difference when, for example, a cloud moves in and changes the light level.


Thanks, Dennis.

Photography: 100 percent art, 100 percent technical. It takes a photographer to blend them into an image.

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#8 fotofill

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Posted 29 August 2019 - 12:16 AM

Art, thanks for the site. I am still reading. 


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#9 Art

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Posted 29 August 2019 - 06:53 AM

Art, thanks for the site. I am still reading.


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#10 ericbowles

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 05:00 PM

Ok, here's the scenario -> I am shooting in a low light gym. ISO is at 10K and I am still a little under exposed. I want to keep my shutter speed at 1/1000. Do I bump the ISO to 12800, OR do I change the EV to +1.0? There has to be a difference somewhere in the results.

 

 

What Mode are you using?  I'd use Manual with a fixed ISO  - which means Exp Comp does not matter.  The reason I like manual is the lighting is constant and you may be getting some metering variation based on gym lights in the frame or reflecting off the floor.  Bright lights in the frame would cause darker than expected exposures.

 

But if you were using a semi-auto mode like Aperture or Shutter priority, Exp Comp would brighten the exposure.  It would also help if you used Manual with Auto ISO.

 

Auto ISO is an interesting solution.  You could use Manual with Auto ISO and Exp Comp as needed.  Auto ISO selects some fractional ISO levels beyond those you can select manually, and it would always select the lowest possible ISO.

 

I'd normally be using the fastest lens possible as long as cropping was only minor.

 

You could also underexpose slightly and lift the exposure in Lightroom.  At upper levels, most Nikon cameras are relatively ISO invariant, so it makes little difference whether you raise exposure via ISO or an Exposure adjustment in post.  You would need to test your specific camera and settings.

 

I'd probably slide shutter speed slightly at that ISO level, but that's just me.  You know your subject and the point where it makes a difference.


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#11 fotofill

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Posted 06 September 2019 - 12:37 AM

Thanks Eric. I decided to just go manual on the settings. I shot some during the warm-up to get what I wanted. My ISO was 10K, shutter 1/800th, aperture was 5.6 or 5. I always go under just a bit and bring it back in Photoshop. D5 can shoot in the dark, so a a touch of noise reduction and sharpening and things were fine. 

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