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#1 Guest_photogbuff_1970_*

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 01:40 PM

With my going to Alamy to try to get my images accepted; I've been trying to test my hand-held skill at long-range (200mm + 300mm) based on both lenses that I have the 70-300mm f/4-5.6 G and the 70-200mm f/2.8. And I feel like I've been failing miserably on the "tack-sharp at 100%" feat. Here's both my results (both handheld):

This was with a 70-300mm G at it's sweetspot of f/8 blown up at 100%.

Posted Image

This shot was with the 70-200mm f/2.8 at it's sweetspot of f/8 blown up at 100%

Posted Image

The original photos were as follows.

Posted Image
70-300mm f/4-5.6 G (full-size)

Posted Image
70-200mm f/2.8 (full-size)

I'm asking this because there will be times that I won't have the ability to put the lens and camera on a tripod (shooting action and other stuff requiring me to move around quickly). How do you get TACK-SHARP images? Is there something wrong with my shooting technique or what?

Edited by photogbuff_1970, 16 June 2010 - 01:48 PM.


#2 Dennis

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 05:01 PM

What was your shutter? ISO? zoom set too? We know F8, but we need a bit more... how far from you is the subject, the bags on the dirt pile.

Thanks, Dennis.

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#3 Guest_photogbuff_1970_*

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 09:34 PM

Sorry, made a mistake on the aperture.

The 70-200mm f/2.8 image was shot originally at:

Aperture: f/14
Shutter-Speed: 1/125
ISO: 200
Zoom Set To: 200mm
Distance to focal point: 50-60 feet.

Here's the f/8 image:

Aperture: f/8
Shutter Speed: 1/320
ISO: 200
Zoom Set To: 200mm
Distance to focal point: 50-60 feet (same distance, I shot from a window)

Posted Image full-size image

Posted Image segment blown up to 100% - to me it still looks a little soft.

#4 Dennis

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 09:21 AM

This is why you need a tripod (yeah, you have to carry it) or a monopod. Rule of thumb with zooms, shutter needs to be 1/x where x is the zoom value. The 1st, you are shooting under that, should have been at least 1/250 Now looking at the 2ed. If your not rock steady, at full zoom any motion will show up. You have F4, with a shallow DOF, so making sure the point you want to be in is the part you check out. The rest is going to be soft. So, not sure which pic your showing here, but the crop is ok. If that was not part of the focus point, then it will be a bit soft. The last pic, is a retake, the shadows on the bag don't match up. What is you hand holding procedures for this?

Thanks, Dennis.

Photography: 100 percent art, 100 percent technical. It takes a photographer to blend them into an image.

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#5 DigitalDarrell

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 02:23 PM

You'll not get pin sharp images out of camera due to the anti-aliasing (blur) filter. Do capture sharpening, which means adding some mild sharpening to overcome the blur filter. When I submit to Alamy, I sharpen twice, no matter what I hear in the forums: 1. My first mild sharpening comes immediately out of the camera, no matter what. I set a radius of 1.0 and sharpen to 15 in Photoshop. 2. My second mild sharpening comes after I enlarge the image to Alamy's preferred 48-50MB size. Again I do a radius of 1.0 and 15 sharpening. I have had very few failures on Alamy's QC, and the few that I've had were not for softness or focus. Mostly it was for spots in the sky, such as a bird that looked like a spot, or an actual dust spot I overlooked. Alamy is fanatical about no spots in the sky. I manually use Photoshop's blur tool on the sky after I de-spot it. Also, you need to multiply the zoom/handhold factor by 1.5 for your D300S (not just 1) since it has a 1.5 crop (greater magnification) compared to a 35mm SLR upon which the rule is based. 200mm will require a minimum shutter speed of 1/300s. (200 x 1.5 = 300) Most try to go higher.
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"Better too many words than not enough understanding." - Darrell Young
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#6 Sailjunkie

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 02:46 PM

I don't want to hijack the thread, but this is related. Does anyone have any experience with the High Pass filter? Mark
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#7 Jon H.

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 04:29 PM

I don't want to hijack the thread, but this is related. Does anyone have any experience with the High Pass filter?

Mark


Not to further hijack, but yes. It's one of my favorite methods for sharpening... Depending on the subject, I set the blend mode of the high pass layer to overlay, hard light, or soft light, and then adjust intensity of the sharpening via layer opacity.

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#8 DigitalDarrell

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 04:40 PM

Sorry, made a mistake on the aperture.

The 70-200mm f/2.8 image was shot originally at:

Aperture: f/14
Shutter-Speed: 1/125
ISO: 200
Zoom Set To: 200mm
Distance to focal point: 50-60 feet.

Here's the f/8 image:

Aperture: f/8
Shutter Speed: 1/320
ISO: 200
Zoom Set To: 200mm
Distance to focal point: 50-60 feet (same distance, I shot from a window)

Posted Image full-size image

Posted Image segment blown up to 100% - to me it still looks a little soft.



This image is sharp enough to be submitted to Alamy as is. It would be even better with a little capture or high-pass sharpening.

However, I think I would shoot some bland images with the 50mm lens, making sure they are good and sharp, then submit your first four to Alamy. Subject does not matter to them. Of course, you want to submit something you think might sell.
Best regards,
Darrell Young (Digital Darrell)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Better too many words than not enough understanding." - Darrell Young
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bodies
: Nikon D810, D800, D750, D600, D2X, COOLPIX A, D100, F80, FM, EM, Olympus OM-D E-M1, Olympus OM-D E-M10
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lenses
: AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G, AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G Special Edition (for Df), AF-S Nikkor 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G VR (x2), AF-S Nikkor DX 16-85mm f/3.5-4.5G VR, AF Nikkor 80-400 f/4.5-5.6D ED VR, AF Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8, AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR, AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR, AF Nikkor 24mm f/2.8D, AI Nikkor 35mm f/2, AI Nikkor 50mm 5/1.8, AI Nikkor 50mm 5/1.8 Series E, AI Nikkor 105mm f/2.5, AI Nikkor 200mm f/4, Non-AI Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4, Sigma 10-20mm EX f/3.5-5.6, M.Zuiko 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 lens, M.Zuiko PRO 12-40mm f/2.8 ED
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#9 Guest_photogbuff_1970_*

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 05:16 PM

This image is sharp enough to be submitted to Alamy as is. It would be even better with a little capture or high-pass sharpening.

However, I think I would shoot some bland images with the 50mm lens, making sure they are good and sharp, then submit your first four to Alamy. Subject does not matter to them. Of course, you want to submit something you think might sell.


Thanks, Darrell. Now I'm going to go focus on a few things that might actually work out in terms of saleable images. But I think I will go ahead and try to get that tripod for that 70-200mm (I'm leaning towards the Manfrotto 055XPROB...(it's heavy, but I like the fact that it'll form a stable platform for that lens). I was just testing on that subject just to see just how "sharp" the 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII would get. I tried a "long-lens" drape arm over the lens while resting it on the window sill while shooting method.

Edited by photogbuff_1970, 17 June 2010 - 05:19 PM.


#10 Mrs_Animal

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 02:03 PM

OK OK now I am thoroughly confused! :blink: Not that that is difficult to do, mind you. :P And yes, I am probably hijacking the thread...but it's my husband's thread...and a wife does have certain privileges. :lol:

Hugo was telling me that Alamy doesn't want you to do any post-processing of your images, yet Darrell...here you sit talking about tinkering with images in PS. I was under the impression that, with these guys, you get the shot right the very first time, or basically, you're screwed. So Darrell, come on, spill! How do you get away with the Photoshop stuff?

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