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Is there a RAW image editor program that works? (focus issues)


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#1 Leaviathan

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 10:18 AM

I tried Contenta this morning, the free version and it didn't do what it claims to do, is there a program that actually works that will allow you to re focus a RAW image? or once the photo's taken you have to deal with it?


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#2 Herman

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 11:07 AM

Jeff, do you have Adobe Photoshop Elements. Don't know about focus adjustments... Works with the wonderful "free" Google NIK software suite allowing plenty of adjustments!

 

:)


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#3 Dennis

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 11:19 AM

You will have to deal with the focus issue at this time.


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#4 Leaviathan

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 12:50 PM

Herman, I have Elements 14.

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#5 Herman

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 01:08 PM

Have you downloaded the NIK software suite?

If not, I highly recommend it.


Equipment: D810 | D300 | D50 and some lenses.

Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 15 + NIK Software Suite
 
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#6 Leaviathan

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 02:04 PM

I'll give it a whirl thanks


Nikon D-3300 18-55 VRII, 1971 Nikkor 135mm Q-Auto, Tamron 70-300 AF. Not much! But I'm working on mastering what I do have.


#7 480sparky

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 02:15 PM

There is NO software that can change the focus if the image is out-of-focus.


Edited by 480sparky, 10 July 2017 - 02:15 PM.

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#8 chaswes5

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 02:57 PM

Shake Reduction in Photoshop CC is as close as it gets.  In a minor instance of "blur," this helps sometimes. Otherwise, what Sparky said.


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#9 Herman

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 03:29 PM

The shake-reduction adjustment is also accommodated in PSE14.


Equipment: D810 | D300 | D50 and some lenses.

Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 15 + NIK Software Suite
 
My motto: To learn more today, than I knew yesterday!

 

 

 

 


#10 james23p

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 08:06 PM

As far as the focus where you having the most trouble at f1.8 remember that is a very shallow depth of field and it will look out of focus. Post one of the shots you are concerned about with the shooting data this will help us some.

 

Jim


God bless all those in harms way and Go Navy!




D700 w/MB-D10, D605 w/MB-D14, D200 w/MB-D200, D50, Coolpix P330.

Nikon 1 stuff: Nikon V1, Nikkor 10mm f2.8 pancake w/HN-N101 & HC-N101, Nikkor 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 w/HB-N101 Aspherical VR,, Nikkor 18.5mm f1.8 w/HB-N104, Nikon 1 FT-1, SB-N5 w/Polaroid Diffuser .

F100 w MB-15, N80, FM3a, FE2(Black and Silver) and EM.

Nikkor 24-85G ED AF-S VR, 70-300G ED AF-S VR, 28-105 3.5-4.5 AF-D, 50 1.8 AF-D, Nikkor 18-35 f3.5-4.5 AF-D ED.

Nikon Series E lens, 28mm, 100mm, 135mm, 75-150mm, 70-210 f4.

MF Nikkor's 50 f2 Ai, 500 f4 ED Ai-P.

 

MF Rokinon 14mm f2.8 ED AE UMC(Ai-P)

MF Rokinon 85mm f1.4 ASP AE UMC(Ai-P)

Sigma 24-70 f2.8 EX DG HSM, Tamron's SP 70-200 f2.8 LD Di IF/Macro BIM, Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC DGX, Tokina 100 f2.8D Macro At-X.

Pro Manfrotto 055XV with Markins M10 ,Sirui P-326 6-Section Carbon Fiber Monopod with Markins Q3 Emille, Manfrotto Compact MKC3-H01M with Combo Head, 3Pod PTT1H Table Top Tripod with Giottos MH1304 Ballhead.


#11 justshootit

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 12:25 PM

Ditto Sparky - you need to get the focus right in-camera.  Honestly, for subjects that aren't moving, I get a better hit rate on focus with the split-screen in the F3 than with any AF camera.


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#12 Leaviathan

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 07:51 PM

As far as the focus where you having the most trouble at f1.8 remember that is a very shallow depth of field and it will look out of focus. Post one of the shots you are concerned about with the shooting data this will help us some.

 

Jim

It's just downright out of focus, what's funny is it didn't look that way when I took the photo


Nikon D-3300 18-55 VRII, 1971 Nikkor 135mm Q-Auto, Tamron 70-300 AF. Not much! But I'm working on mastering what I do have.


#13 james23p

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 12:00 AM

Post a few if you can, were any in focus?

Jim

God bless all those in harms way and Go Navy!




D700 w/MB-D10, D605 w/MB-D14, D200 w/MB-D200, D50, Coolpix P330.

Nikon 1 stuff: Nikon V1, Nikkor 10mm f2.8 pancake w/HN-N101 & HC-N101, Nikkor 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 w/HB-N101 Aspherical VR,, Nikkor 18.5mm f1.8 w/HB-N104, Nikon 1 FT-1, SB-N5 w/Polaroid Diffuser .

F100 w MB-15, N80, FM3a, FE2(Black and Silver) and EM.

Nikkor 24-85G ED AF-S VR, 70-300G ED AF-S VR, 28-105 3.5-4.5 AF-D, 50 1.8 AF-D, Nikkor 18-35 f3.5-4.5 AF-D ED.

Nikon Series E lens, 28mm, 100mm, 135mm, 75-150mm, 70-210 f4.

MF Nikkor's 50 f2 Ai, 500 f4 ED Ai-P.

 

MF Rokinon 14mm f2.8 ED AE UMC(Ai-P)

MF Rokinon 85mm f1.4 ASP AE UMC(Ai-P)

Sigma 24-70 f2.8 EX DG HSM, Tamron's SP 70-200 f2.8 LD Di IF/Macro BIM, Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC DGX, Tokina 100 f2.8D Macro At-X.

Pro Manfrotto 055XV with Markins M10 ,Sirui P-326 6-Section Carbon Fiber Monopod with Markins Q3 Emille, Manfrotto Compact MKC3-H01M with Combo Head, 3Pod PTT1H Table Top Tripod with Giottos MH1304 Ballhead.


#14 Leaviathan

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 10:57 AM

Post a few if you can, were any in focus?

Jim

The one with the nice smile is out of focus, and the one with no smile is in focus, just my luck

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Nikon D-3300 18-55 VRII, 1971 Nikkor 135mm Q-Auto, Tamron 70-300 AF. Not much! But I'm working on mastering what I do have.


#15 Leaviathan

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 10:58 AM

I wonder if the focus drifted


Nikon D-3300 18-55 VRII, 1971 Nikkor 135mm Q-Auto, Tamron 70-300 AF. Not much! But I'm working on mastering what I do have.


#16 Dennis

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 12:16 PM

Yeap


Thanks, Dennis.

Photography: 100 percent art, 100 percent technical. It takes a photographer to blend them into an image.

​Film: That tangible image that you can see and hold.

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#17 Leaviathan

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:00 PM

I snapped 4 quick shots, so that must be the case. I guess that's why some lenses cost $200 and some cost $2000


Nikon D-3300 18-55 VRII, 1971 Nikkor 135mm Q-Auto, Tamron 70-300 AF. Not much! But I'm working on mastering what I do have.


#18 james23p

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:01 PM

Yup the focus does look like it drifted.

Jim

God bless all those in harms way and Go Navy!




D700 w/MB-D10, D605 w/MB-D14, D200 w/MB-D200, D50, Coolpix P330.

Nikon 1 stuff: Nikon V1, Nikkor 10mm f2.8 pancake w/HN-N101 & HC-N101, Nikkor 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 w/HB-N101 Aspherical VR,, Nikkor 18.5mm f1.8 w/HB-N104, Nikon 1 FT-1, SB-N5 w/Polaroid Diffuser .

F100 w MB-15, N80, FM3a, FE2(Black and Silver) and EM.

Nikkor 24-85G ED AF-S VR, 70-300G ED AF-S VR, 28-105 3.5-4.5 AF-D, 50 1.8 AF-D, Nikkor 18-35 f3.5-4.5 AF-D ED.

Nikon Series E lens, 28mm, 100mm, 135mm, 75-150mm, 70-210 f4.

MF Nikkor's 50 f2 Ai, 500 f4 ED Ai-P.

 

MF Rokinon 14mm f2.8 ED AE UMC(Ai-P)

MF Rokinon 85mm f1.4 ASP AE UMC(Ai-P)

Sigma 24-70 f2.8 EX DG HSM, Tamron's SP 70-200 f2.8 LD Di IF/Macro BIM, Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC DGX, Tokina 100 f2.8D Macro At-X.

Pro Manfrotto 055XV with Markins M10 ,Sirui P-326 6-Section Carbon Fiber Monopod with Markins Q3 Emille, Manfrotto Compact MKC3-H01M with Combo Head, 3Pod PTT1H Table Top Tripod with Giottos MH1304 Ballhead.


#19 james23p

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:08 PM

Does the D3300 have focus priority this is a setting only allows the shutter to fire when focus has been achieved vs release priority that will fire regardless whether focus has been achieved or not.

God bless all those in harms way and Go Navy!




D700 w/MB-D10, D605 w/MB-D14, D200 w/MB-D200, D50, Coolpix P330.

Nikon 1 stuff: Nikon V1, Nikkor 10mm f2.8 pancake w/HN-N101 & HC-N101, Nikkor 10-30mm f3.5-5.6 w/HB-N101 Aspherical VR,, Nikkor 18.5mm f1.8 w/HB-N104, Nikon 1 FT-1, SB-N5 w/Polaroid Diffuser .

F100 w MB-15, N80, FM3a, FE2(Black and Silver) and EM.

Nikkor 24-85G ED AF-S VR, 70-300G ED AF-S VR, 28-105 3.5-4.5 AF-D, 50 1.8 AF-D, Nikkor 18-35 f3.5-4.5 AF-D ED.

Nikon Series E lens, 28mm, 100mm, 135mm, 75-150mm, 70-210 f4.

MF Nikkor's 50 f2 Ai, 500 f4 ED Ai-P.

 

MF Rokinon 14mm f2.8 ED AE UMC(Ai-P)

MF Rokinon 85mm f1.4 ASP AE UMC(Ai-P)

Sigma 24-70 f2.8 EX DG HSM, Tamron's SP 70-200 f2.8 LD Di IF/Macro BIM, Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC DGX, Tokina 100 f2.8D Macro At-X.

Pro Manfrotto 055XV with Markins M10 ,Sirui P-326 6-Section Carbon Fiber Monopod with Markins Q3 Emille, Manfrotto Compact MKC3-H01M with Combo Head, 3Pod PTT1H Table Top Tripod with Giottos MH1304 Ballhead.


#20 Herman

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:13 PM

I notice the images were taken at ISO-6400. Perhaps the lighting circumstances was just too much for your D3300's autofocus system. I note the images were taken at 1/2000s...


Equipment: D810 | D300 | D50 and some lenses.

Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 15 + NIK Software Suite
 
My motto: To learn more today, than I knew yesterday!

 

 

 

 


#21 Leaviathan

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:42 PM

I notice the images were taken at ISO-6400. Perhaps the lighting circumstances was just too much for your D3300's autofocus system. I note the images were taken at 1/2000s...

Rookie mistake, I was outdoors and came in for a few photos, shortly after I realized this and changed it to 1/60 sec. and got a couple great photos


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#22 Leaviathan

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:46 PM

Does the D3300 have focus priority this is a setting only allows the shutter to fire when focus has been achieved vs release priority that will fire regardless whether focus has been achieved or not.

I don't believe so, but I should have left it on BBF mode, I could have locked in because they were stationary. I think I'll switch to BBF and leave it there.


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#23 Sailjunkie

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 12:12 PM

I thought that focus priority was pretty common on most recent camera bodies.  I've set the D810 shutter to only fire when focus has been achieved.  If my shutter doesn't fire, I check focus and adjust manually if needed.  Lea, what does your camera manual have to say about this?

 

Also, I understood that AF depends on contrast in a scene, to work properly.  The result is that it doesn't always work very well in low light settings.  My recent experience has been that when I use high ISO, I end up using MF.  If I'm using a tripod, I switch to Live View, zoom in on the area that I want to be sharp, then use MF.  :)


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#24 ericbowles

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 12:06 PM

Focus Priority is not a perfect solution.  There are cases where once focus is achieved, you can focus and recompose resulting in an out of focus subject.   Focus Priority simply means the camera achieved focus.  I usually want to use Release Priority.  If I press the shutter button, I want the camera to fire.  I may miss focus, but at a critical point a slight miss may be better than not firing at all.  Depending on your aperture selection and desired output size, slightly missed focus may still appear sharp.  The camera can refuse to fire because focus is off by 6 inches, but if you have a depth of field of 2 feet, there is plenty of margin for error.

 

As far as recovery goes, Focus Magic is a handy program for recovering slightly soft images.  It works as a stand alone or as a Photoshop plug in.  You can control where focus is applied - and even decrease focus if desired for background areas.  Focus Magic can be useful for sharpening stars or even correcting motion blur.

 

http://www.focusmagic.com/


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