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any tips for Spray Mounting???


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#1 gophillies74

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 04:54 PM

I wasn't aware that as soon as the spray adhesive tacks there is no room for error, once the print and foamcore touch it's as good as cemented. I have seen where people buy a larger piece of foamcore to allow for cutting away the excess but unfortunately I have precut 10x15 foamcore for 10x15 prints....Any suggestions to make proper placement easier would be greatly appreciated!!!Thanks

#2 tlsmith1000

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 09:08 PM

Start at the corner and go slow and steady. Line up an edge at a corner and slowly smooth the print down onto the foam core. You may still have to trim a little but maybe only a millimeter. And if you do have to trim, use a new SHARP xacto blade and a METAL ruler to trim along. Don't try to cut the whole way through the first pass, and for goodness sakes, don't cut your finger. I know all this from experience. Way too much experience.:angry: I was in a hurry once and took the tips off a finger and thumb with the xacto. Not only did it hurt, I bled all over the print and had to make another. Do you have any idea what fixer feels like on an open bleeding wound?
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#3 Peter

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 09:11 PM

John, Why not use dry mounting? Much more forgiving than spray mounting. Peter

Edited by Peter, 10 July 2012 - 09:12 PM.


#4 Art

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 09:29 PM

I wasn't aware that as soon as the spray adhesive tacks there is no room for error, once the print and foamcore touch it's as good as cemented. I have seen where people buy a larger piece of foamcore to allow for cutting away the excess but unfortunately I have precut 10x15 foamcore for 10x15 prints....Any suggestions to make proper placement easier would be greatly appreciated!!!Thanks


I have done a lot of mounting and I use 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. I absolutely do not recommend you do this and expect to get the best results the first time out, you will be greatly disappointed. There is ZERO margin of error as the tack begins almost on contact. Once that happens, you are committed for good or bad.

If you absolutely have to go this route, you have to practise first and still, the success/failure ratio is not good. Terry's suggestions are good ones. I have found once you tack down an edge and it is square, work from the centre out. Getting the air out and keeping it smooth are everything. A roller is a really good tool and you have to work fast.

If you spray unevenly, this will show up as lumps! Keep the can at least one foot away and constantly move it side to side to avoid too much glue in one spot.

Dry mount is much better, as Peter suggests.

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#5 gophillies74

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 06:11 AM

I may just ditch the mounting all together. My main goal is to make the print more solid for easier Presentation and handling so just using foam core or cardboard for backing in a plastic bag would achieve the same result with less of a chance of a ruined print.

#6 Dennis

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 08:38 AM

If this is just to put a backing on it, there is mounting tape. Wedding photographers supplies, but you should be able to get it at mounting supplies. It is like two sided 3M tape, but does not become permanent on first contact. Actually, it will dry up and fall off in a year or two. But, you place it on the corners of the print you want mounted, and then place (lightly) the print. This mounting tape works well for wedding books, as one would also place a mat frame over the print, so the tape is holding from underneath, the frame matte from the front. I have used this site for some ideas http://www.framedest...e_mounting.html I have heard that scrap book folks use this type of tape; http://www.amazon.co...o mounting tape Just need to be sure it is archival, or acid free.

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#7 Mr Gladstone

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 12:28 PM

I use a Colourmount PH neutral self adhesive board and an ink roller. This gives me flawless results and it really isn't hard. The board comes with a peel back layer over the adhesive. Just slit a little channel right down the centre of the peel back layer about 10mm thick. This gives you a small area of adhesive which you can move your print around on until its positioned correctly. Then you must peel back the self adhesive layer FROM THE CENTRE OUTWARDS! That is the important bit! Peel it back a couple of inches at a time and use your sparkly new ink roller to flatten the image out as you go. Once again, do this from the centre out. It is important that you use the ink roller efficiently or you will end up with air bubbles in your print. From my experience dry mounting is an excellent way to mount dark room prints but printer inks don't seem to react so well to the process. Be very careful if you go this route. The simplest option of all is just to print your images onto really nice thick papers, which most of the time cuts out the need for spray/dry mounting anyway. Hope that's helpful and Good luck!
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#8 Old Dog New Tricks

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 02:20 PM

When using contact cement for other counter tops, they placed dowels on the base and then aligned the Formica over it. When aligned they pull the dowels out one at a time. Don't know if that will help you. OD
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#9 fotofill

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 01:39 PM

I have some hardware clamps.(.99 @ Big Lots) You can squeeze em and hold the photo in place with 3 across the top. I pad them so they don't injure photo. Lift photo and clamp bottom to hold it up. I apply the stick'em and use my wife's rolling pin to roll the print. I can do this on 13X19. 20X30s need more clamps and a lot more time.
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