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Member Since 15 Dec 2006
Offline Last Active Oct 02 2018 09:21 PM

Topics I've Started

ODS on Phottix Odin works amazingly well

07 September 2018 - 03:00 PM

ODS = Over Drive Sync. This is the same thing as Pocket Wizard's HyperSync. It lets you sync the flash at shutter speeds higher than your camera's max sync speed.

I was able to get a well exposed shot with manageable gradation from an SB-26 at full power on a D610 at 1/4000th sec at f/1.8 and ISO 50. The flash was behind a shoot-thru umbrella.

At full power -1/3 stop, however, banding set because the flash duration drops when the IGBT circuit kicks in below full power.

I'm seriously considering getting a White Lightning x3200 (1320Ws) and trying the test with that.

I like these HyperSync and HiSync scenarios because they get around the power loss from High Speed Sync.


29 August 2018 - 09:19 AM

Been looking at lights beyond the speedlight category for a bit and what a frustration!!! I have the Phottix Odin and it's a fun system to use. So I looked at the reviews on the Indra lights and everybody loves the fit, finish and function but there are many reviews about a BAD color shift with these lights.

Look up Joachim Drake's and the Dubois Photo Group's reviews if you want to see what I'm referring to. I want to use these for commercial interiors and I can't afford to have one corner of the room at 5600K and the other at 7300K. The shift is that bad in some cases.

Looked at the Godox/ Flashpoint and love the removable heads but the cables are only 6' -- not good on a 13' light stand. SHAZBAT!!!! I don't want heavy monolights on a big stand. Expensive, top-heavy rigs are accidents waiting to happen.

I'm probably going to end up with the Elinchrom ELB500 TTL or maybe Profoto B1s but they are pretty expensive.

C'mon Phottix, fix this doggone color shift!! Do that and you'll gain a ton of market share!!

Non-TTL Auto Not Exposing Properly

17 June 2018 - 12:18 AM

Wow, learned a valuable lesson on this.  Was just playing around with Non-TTL auto mode* with an old SB-26 on a digital camera - it was a "what am I going to do if the SB-800 doesn't work and I still need on-camera flash?" kind of experiment.  When I used this combo, I was getting shots that were about two stops overexposed, and I was a baffled as to why. 


That was until I looked at the front of the flash, and noticed that the Non-TTL Auto sensor looked "fuzzy."  There was a layer of dust on the sensor that was blocking about two stops of light the flash subsequently left the flash tube on longer to compensate.  I cleaned the sensor with a Q-TIP and it works perfectly now.



*For those of you not familiar, the SB-26 is a 1990-vintage flash that doesn't have the TTL modes that work on a digital camera.  It does TTL on film bodies, but not on digital.  On a pro camera like the D1 - D5 (I think this feature is still on the D5), the camera will pick up that there's a flash attached and set the shutter to 1/60th (depending on you settings) and it will transmit the ISO to these old flashes, but you need to set the aperture manually on the flash.  Therefore the best way to do this is with either aperture priority mode or manual mode.  On the hobbyist and semi pro cameras, the camera does not set the shutter to 1/60th and it doesn't transmit the ISO to the flash, so you need to set both the aperture and the ISO on the flash and use manual mode on the camera.  This also holds true for most of the other flashes made for film bodies.